Tuesday, 28 May 2013

Synopsis


SYNOPSIS

 “Life of Christchurch flows in and through this great building because it is where the city comes to celebrate and grieve. Here we flee the pressing issues of our day. For this is our place, with space for all to stand.” My collection looks to flee the sadness seen within our city now and focus on cherishing and remembering what stood in our city and is worth restoring and sustaining. The story is not sad it is uplifting spirits and memories of Christchurch and the Cathedral Square. The story looks exciting and colourful especially in the outerwear and on the directional pieces due to the bright patterns I have incorporated. Base and mid layer colours are fairly neutral with lots of black and gold being the main focus, these colours together remind me of the cathedral church as they are quite elegant and celebratory together. Textures are soft as I will be using many 100% wool and 100% fair trade organic cotton as I am focussing on sustainability for this 2013/14 Autumn/ Winter collection. I am focussing of sustainability in relation to sustaining Christchurch and supporting local businesses therefore I will source my wool fabrics from Untouched World, a sustainability and wool focused label / manufacturer. The fabrics are all very warm to appeal to the market this coming winter. My target market is a high range diffusion market with natural fabrics being used meaning the prices will be higher therefore the target shopper needs to be able to afford the items. The age range is 18- 35 therefore the items need to be at a reasonably affordable price et still taking into account the price of natural fabrics, the attention to detail and the high quality standards that the garments will be manufactured in. My goals in this collection are to appeal to a wide age range for everyday wear therefore practicality is essential for my sustainability collection. If I had the available resources such as 100% organic fair trade cotton and 100% wool fabrics my entire collection would be made out of these and I would not be using the slim amount of polyester, which I would have had to in this case. My market impacts my collection as I want to supply variety and range, therefore I have designed many directional pieces which are recognizable but I have also created many base and mid layer pieces which can easily be mixed and matched with all garments. My collection will appeal to my target market due to the designs and will also reach out to another target market of those whom are sustainability focused. It will appeal to them not only in terms of fabrics but also labour, the farmers who grow the cotton will be rewarded as is fair for doing so such as minimum pay at least which will also cover the cost of sustainable productions.  The manufacturing and labour process will all be under reasonable hours, pays, treatment, and will take place in acceptable environments. The collection will be complex, especially in the manufacturing stage as there will be nothing too technically challenging to produce in larger quantities at a faster rate. These methods and approaches are appropriate to use as they reflect my sustainability theme relating to Christchurch after the earthquake. Customers who buy sustainability are helping to reduce and fight poverty as well as helping towards sustainable development for marginalised farmers. This is important to maintain because if we do not act now, poverty will take further steps and the price of cotton will become lower and lower which means the farmers will in time not be able to afford to produce it and there will be no cotton for our world. Kowtow is an inspiration to my collection as is untouched world which is Christchurch based.

Date: 29/05/2013 

Sample five


Side view of the neck fastened on a person. 


The neck and how it would look buttoned up on a person, obviously the rest of the cape would be attached. 

With the neck undone. 

This sample four is displaying the fastening of the neck piece of the cape shown in outfit eight. The neck is 98% wool and 2% spandex and is double layered for warmth. Its closure consists of 2 gold buttons and button holes on either side. they can be worn done up or undone.

Date: 29/05/2013

Sample four


Sample four is from the skivvies seen in outfit one, eight and ten. The main of the skivvy is 100% black merino wool and the cuff is a heavy duty 100% wool.

Date: 29/05/2013

Sample three


Sample three is reflecting the contrasting zip closure on the coat in outfit four. The body of the garment is 100% wool and the zipper is suppose to be a royal blue color however in this case is a little off what I desired.

Date: 29/05/2013

Sample two


Above is the front view to display the flow of the fabric. Obviously seams will not be overlocked on the actual garments and once again the patterns will be cut in block shapes to avoid waste. 

Sample two is reflecting the open back cut outs from the tops in outfit six and ten. The open backs reflect the holes in the Cathedral and the flow of the fabric combined with this concepts is representive of the wind and air passing through those empty spaces now. The garments are both 100% fair trade cotton however in this case it is made of 100% normal cotton. I did not add of the sleeves for design six or the longer back for design ten as this sample is purely to show the cut out back and the flow of the cotton.

Date: 2/05/2013

Sample One

The image does not display the kimono sleeve well as the image is quite dark however they are unattached at the bottom seams of the sleeves allowing the rest of the sleeve to fall in a kimono style. 

Above is the back of the dress. Displaying the flow of the fabric and the drape of the kimono sleeves. 


The finished piece without the screen printing rose window print. I was pushed for time so unfortunately was quite off with my pattern cutting sizes and ended up making a much larger dress that it should be. Ideally this communicates the shape and the flow/ fall of the dress and silhouette. The sleeves and cuffs are far too long and should stop at the 3/4 arm mark and the main body of the dress could be cut to a more slimming shape but still oversized, the neck would also be looser to get the baggy drape look. The dress is made from 100% fair trade cotton with 100% silk cuffs and neck inserts. However here I have had to use 100% normal cotton due to the difficulty of locating fair trade cotton easily. 

Above is a quick sample of the pattern layout plan which would be used for dress 7 in my line up. Everything is cut in boxes, and placed close together with little waste left over. 


Above are the front and back panels of the dress and the sleeve pieces. All cut in box shapes.

To incorporate sustainability into my manufacturing stages I will have many pattern pieces being cut as square shapes in order to preserve fabric and decrease the amount of unnecessary waste of fabrics. Above is the sleeve cuffs and neck pieces for my first sample which is dress number 7 on my line up.

Date: 29/05/2013

Final Illustrations.






For my final illustrations I designed a back drop which effectively communicates my concept and kept this consitent through them all. I chose these five outfits as I think they are the strongest representations as a group of my mood, aesthetic and macro. I have used the same images from my line up as i think it looks fresh and clean and I wanted to continue this for my other work.

Date: 29/05/2013

Illustration back ground.


This is the uniform background I have created on photoshop that I will use for all of my illustrations.

Range plan with spec drawings.






Date: 29/05/2013

Illustration development.


Here I have done very similarly and added in a banner reminding those of the earthquake Christchurch experience. I am unsure about both of these as I think they are a bit bold and contrasty compared to my other work so far. 

With this illustration draft I have taken an image of the Cathedral Square and blow it up to create contrast and added in royal blue tone to reflect my collection. I have just taken a design from my line up and place her into the illustration as the main focus, I think my line up is strong and clearly reflects my concept therefore this is why I have re used some images from it.

Date: 29/05/2013

Final Line Up Design.

This is my final line up with the outerwear included on the model. 

This is my final line up without the outerwear on. 


I have changed the text to Future as it is more simplistic and does not take away from the designs by being too overwhelming. 

I like this layout better. It is more cohesive as the pants and skirts etc are spread out and not all grouped in one area. The text needs working. 


Line up without jackets on. I do not like this layout of the outfits. I have used the rose window image in the background to tie in my concept once again.

Date: 29/05/2013

Line up background.


Date: 29/05/2013

Line up potential backgrounds.




Date: 29/05/2013

Final Mood Board

This is my final mood board.

Some inspiration was drawn from David Hockney in the way in which he distorts images but the inspiration was mainly from the Cathedral's journey itself.



Date: 29/05/2013

Line up development part two

Second half of my line up. 

The rose window print on the tee shirts is screen printed and has been taken from my previous collections illustrations as it is an identifiable symbol to my collections and concept.

Date: 29/05/2013

Line up development

First Half of my Line up. 


This is the first half of my collection in which I have first drawn the garments in proportions to my chosen template model and then scanned them into photoshop and edited them / added color through this. I used many of my fabrics by scanning them in or taking appropriate photos which have helped to render my garments and make them appeal more realistic.

Date: 29/05/2013

Line up

After developing my most successful concepts I decided to do a cut out activity where I cut out all the garments and mixed and matched them all until I found a line up which I thought was cohesive and best expressive of my concept. These are the ten outfits I generated through this task and will use for my line up.

Date: 28/05/2013

Monday, 27 May 2013

Template

This model I will use for my designs and line up. She is from http://www.shonajoy.com.au/
The body shape and hair and makeup are all quite simple which is what I want for my line up. Because I will have lots of prints and patterns I want a simple model for my line up to relate with the simplicity of sustainability and the fabrics I am using.

Date: 28/05/2013

Photoshop trial

This is my first trial with photoshop and the previous sketches I have done. Just testing with my fabrics and seeing how they look on the screen. 

Date: 28/05/2013

Fabrics




White and black cotton. I have used this white cotton for the mid layer in outfit 6 on my final line up however this is normal 100% cotton at $19.99 per meter with cold hand wash advised. The black cotton has been used for the dress in outfit 7 and the tee shirt in outfit 3 and the singlet on outfit 10, colors could vary to white rather than black. I will be using 100% fair trade cotton for my collection however could not locate any for my samples. 

Date: 29/05/2013

Many of my fabrics are dry clean only due to the fact that they are pure wool or silk or a complicated polyester, this is okay for my target market as it is the higher diffusion market and most of the wool is being used for coats or pants which do not need to be washed regularly. The merino is hand washable as is some of the polyester therefore my market is definitely not reaching the mass market as they cannot afford to or do not have time to hand wash or dry clean items. These fabrics are appropriate for my target market and my concept. 

However not sustainable this black polyester may need to be used for my pants. And the 100% silk will be used for possibly the neck and cuffs of some dresses. 
100% polyester in gold. If needed I may use this for some dresses or skirts or perhaps for lining of a coat, or outer layer with wool inside for warmth. 
65% polyester and 35% PU, not in relation to my sustainable theme but I might add it in somewhere for contrast or water protection. 
100% merino wool. Will be used for majority of basic mid layer tops with screen printing as well as for some dresses. 
100% lightweight gold wool. Will be used for dresses, tops and pants. 
98% thick wool. Will be used for coats and dresses as well as heavy cuffs of some of the tops. Will also be used for skirts. 
Thick wool and viscose blend. Will be used for a jacket. Will also be in red and green. Unfortunately I couldn't find anything this color in 100% wool.

Date: 28/05/2013